Which is the real Li family dish? A few days ago, Li Xiaolin, the second generation descendant of Li Jiacai, was interviewed by a reporter, responding to some questions previously raised.
Is the dish not worthy of its name?
These days, because the dishes are questioned, there are many netizens who come to curse people under Lis Micro blog.
Although Li Xiaolin said he had not been in charge of the restaurants specific affairs since 2009, his microblog account still flooded with netizens comments.
Its not how arrogant we are, but you have to talk to reasonable people. In Li Xiaolins opinion, many netizens are venting their anger and have no intention of discussing cooking at all.
At the same time, he also paid attention to several food bloggers on the micro blog some query voice.
Li Xiaolin, for example, said that some people questioned on Weibo how the elbow is a piece of pork and still so fat, roast duck seems to be different from what he imagined.
He explained to reporters: the original name of this dish was tiger skin elbow. . Because before the Qing Dynasty, 50 Jin pigs were used, and the meat from the back of the buttocks was used for cooking. Thin and thick meat was suitable. But now all the ingredients are pigs with hundreds of catties, and the elbow is very thick and woody. So we use streaky pork instead. Its just the same as the taste of pork elbow, which is fat and thin
In addition, the suspected roast duck is not Beijing roast duck. We have roast duck, pot roast duck, not roast duck. He may not know that ducks do something else
Li family cuisine is a time honored brand?
u2014u2014It opened in 1985
Besides dishes, on the Internet, many people call Lis cuisine time honored brand. In fact, the reporter did not understand this statement accurately.
Our family is from old Beijing and Manchu. The old people in the family are in the palace. They have something to do with food and drink. Speaking of the origin of Li family cuisine, Li Xiaolin only lightly mentioned such a sentence.
In fact, Lis cuisine is only 35 years old this year.
Its official website and previous reports have confirmed this statement. A widely used story goes like thisu2014u2014
Li Zijia, the grandfather of Li Shanlin, the founder of Li Jiacai, was the Minister of interior affairs in the late Qing Dynasty and was in charge of intrauterine meals. After resigning, Li Zijia left a menu of the palace according to her memory. Later, the recipe disappeared, but Li Shanlin, who loved cooking, kept the contents in his mind.
Lis cuisine became famous in 1984. That year, the Li family won the first prize in a cooking competition jointly organized by CCTV and China food magazine.
It was not until 1985 that Li Shanlin officially opened Lis family dishes with imperial and Beijing flavor.
Palace food or Beijing food?
u2014u2014Its not court food, its court flavor
Therefore, the palace flavor and Beijing flavor have become the two labels in peoples impression.
However, Li Xiaolin told reporters that although there is a palace flavor in it, it can never be called palace cuisine. Because my father thinks that what he eats today is different from what he used to eat.
Looking at previous reports, the reporter found that Li Shanlin, Li Xiaolins father, also mentioned this point in an interview program many years ago.
Our dishes are made according to the table by table banquet, and different banquet forms different set meal. There are more than 60% palace flavor in different set meals. We dont order court food. To be specific, it is made by imitating the dishes that Empress Dowager Cixi ate at that time.
As for why they didnt order court dishes, Li Shanlin gave the following reason: because none of the dishes I cooked were eaten by Empress Dowager Cixi. This is because the Empress Dowager Cixi can eat raw materials now? For example, carrots are orange now, but Empress Dowager Cixi used to eat flagpole red, which is not the same as now.
Very traditional things may die out after a long time, which is the case in history. He said.
Dishes with stories or satisfaction on taste buds?
In fact, in several previous responses, Lis side has expressed a similar view: Lis cuisine adheres to traditional practices and maintains its traditional taste, which has never changed over the years.
Li Jiacai staff also told the media: they (food bloggers) said it is not worth, we have no way, we just need to do our own things.
In the view of the Li family, the old taste is the foundation of Li family cuisine, especially the practice of these traditional dishes is connected with historical stories.
But on the other hand, diners who express dissatisfaction on social media may think simply: they just want to have a good meal that suits todays taste and high-quality service, and Lis cuisine doesnt satisfy their desire.
At the end of the day, its a mismatch between supply and demand: restaurants sell dishes with stories and local characteristics, and diners want to buy satisfaction on the taste buds.
The reporter also noticed that in the comments on this matter in recent days, there were constant references to the classic lines in Zhao Lirongs sketch adventure of working many years ago: palace jade liquor, 181 cups. But at the same time, it is undeniable that a restaurant that is good at telling stories will also have an appeal to specific groups of people.
As to what kind of Li family cuisine belongs to, different customers may give different answers. Whether it can survive in todays market environment is the standard to judge this restaurant. (end)