Tibetan wilderness driver: we are born prodigal and dont think about the future

 Tibetan wilderness driver: we are born prodigal and dont think about the future

Most of the wild drivers engaged in no mans land crossing in Tibet have a special love for Tibet. They like snow mountain, no mans land, wild yak, various measures (Tibetan lakes) and the feeling of high altitude oxygen thin; sometimes they even know foreign languages, photography, playing guitar and singing, and can accompany you to see the stars in the middle of the night.

They usually travel in their own cars in Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet and Xinjiang. Under the introduction of the Internet or the innkeeper, they pick up the guests according to their own abilities and design a unique route for them according to the ideas of the guests.

In all routes, Lhasa is a certain place to stay. We all regard Lhasa as a base camp and deride ourselves as Labai and hiding.

Every driver has his own small circle. If there are many famous customers, they will be given to friends who are good friends. If there is no source of customers, they can only pick up the customers who are given by others and slowly gather word of mouth. Sometimes when there is a big wave of customers, four or five cars cross together in groups, they choose an old driver who is familiar with the road conditions as the leader, drive the first car to lead the way, and take charge of the food, accommodation and landing of the journey Feet, safety.

Without excellent skills, you cant deal with cliffs and dangerous beaches.

In the eyes of our guests, we regard hobbies as a profession, to play and to raise play, which is cool and free and easy. But actually, our group seldom can save money all year round - a new car can run into a broken car in two years, so the money we earn always needs to be changed.

Of course, its decent to live like the envy of others. Lets not think about the future, the dependence on the old, the intrigue in the city and the house price.

I started in a car

The first time we met was in 2012. At that time, I was just a tourist, and the army was the one we finally selected after comparing with many drivers.

We are going to Yadong. There is a long way to cross along the border line. There is no rutting to learn from. The army led us to walk in the deserted Gobi desert all the time. The food and accommodation along the way did not take us into the black shop to get kickbacks.

On the way, every time we see a shocking snow mountain, the army can accurately report its name and altitude, with pride on its face, as if the snow mountain belonged to their family. When we go to some special places, the army will enthusiastically let us off to watch. Several times when we were too tired to get out of the car, he ran to take photos on his own, as excited as a child seeing a new toy.

I took a picture with Dajun (first from left) when we met for the first time.

On the last day of our return trip, we were still on Panshan road of provincial highway 307 at 11:00 p.m. Not far after Manla reservoir, the army suddenly slowed down, turned off the music in the car seriously and lowered all the windows. We couldnt freeze in the car, but we didnt dare to ask more when looking at the soldiers. As soon as we got down the mountain, the army raised the window again and continued to sing.

Its OK, the army said with a relaxed face. There were many falling stones on the road just now. The soil of this mountain is loose and there are often mudslides. Im afraid of the situation. I cant see clearly at night. I can only listen to the sound with my ears.

At that moment, I felt that the army was just a school captain on TV. When I arrived in Lhasa, I would simply worship him as my teacher.

In 2012, I met a falling stone when I rode back to Lhasa in the armys car.

When I got home, I watched the army update my circle of friends when I was free: when I met the wonderful guest, when I met the double rainbow, when I met the wild yak being chased in the no mans land When wechat chatted, he would shout: apprentice, do you miss me again? When will you come to Tibet? Ill be your apprentice! When you come, I will take you to Tibet!

The daily equipment on the wild drivers car is enough to make a cup of coffee or milk for the guests in the wild.

In 2015, due to various changes, I drove a Skoda car from my home and went to Tibet to find the army. He looked at me and my car very seriously and said with a strong smile, are you here to tickle me? Are you here to run a taxi in sharp

Ill take this bus now, and run some regular scenic spots first!

Forget it. In a few days, there will be a route that is not very strong. It needs two cars. I will discuss it with the guests. You are cheaper. I will take you with me. There is only a section of sand. Then I will take you there.

At the edge of the lake, we met the patrol border armed police. After checking the border guard card, the other side looked at my car and said, where did this car fall? Its awesome!

I secretly complacent: have no what fierce, carefully slowly drove over

Armed police face a bad smile: I mean dare to take your car people fierce Oh, psychological endurance is very strong

When there is a business, we go out of sports cars respectively. Every time we take our guests back to Lhasa, we will call on each other to have a drink together. In fact, a large part of Lhasas bar business depends on our drivers. Every time we earn money, we share the thrill, car sinking and road finding in the bar.

When there is no business, we will sun up and brag together, talk about the next wave of guests itinerary, and study the route we like: where there are swamps, where we need to avoid the most sunny time in the afternoon If the place where the guest wants to go is the same as his own route, it can be cheaper.

In 2015, I had my own nest in Lhasa. The army spent 100 yuan to collect 4 iron boxes for my kitchen, and gave full play to the welders specialty to make a sunshine living room for me.

This girl is good. Take good care of her.

In fact, marriage is a rarity for wilderness drivers - Tibet has high altitude, dry air, inconvenient life and shopping, and few girls are willing to live with it.

Our ideal is to find a girl who runs an inn in Lhasa. Everyone has a love and feelings for Tibet. We can also bring business to each other, match men and women, and match the inside with the outside.

But when it comes to chasing girls, we are not rivals for male tourists to Tibet - more than half of the time every month is in sports cars, sometimes there is no cell phone signal. Its not easy to fix it in Lhasa for three or two days. We havent talked with girls yet. We have to go again. When we go back to Lhasa next time, we find that girls have already left with others.

Day to day for wilderness drivers.

Before coming to Lhasa, the army had done odd jobs of welding in his hometown in Henan Province and had a meal by craft. It is said that the eldest sister-in-law and he are from the same village, but later he was repudiated to be useless in making aluminum alloy doors and windows, and filed for divorce in 2006. The Army rode motorcycles all the way to Lhasa to relax. After returning from Lhasa, they divorced. Their two sons and their wives paid their own monthly support.

In 2006, the Army rode to Lhasa for the first time.

During the Wenchuan earthquake, the army took a motorcycle to Wenchuan as a volunteer for the first time - not all welders love to ride motorcycles to Tibet. This time back home, the army became a celebrity. At this time, the second sister-in-law appeared. The adoration of the little girl made the army quickly put in a new relationship.

In 2006, the Army rode a motorcycle along the Sichuan Tibet line, which was very popular.

But after experiencing the 72 turns on the Sichuan Tibet line, seeing the stars all over Everest, and walking through the no mans land in Ali, my hometown cant hold the restless heart of the army.

After discussing with his second sister-in-law, he decided to start a business in Lhasa. The second sister-in-law has a business sense. She rented a very small shop to sell womens clothes at the intersection of bakuo street and Beijing road. She specializes in the business of night girls. After finishing decorating the shop from the inside to the outside, Dajun went to Guangzhou to purchase goods. Many e-commerce companies still dont pack mail for Tibet, so the second sister-in-laws clothing business is in a mess. She quickly set up the largest two-tier door in the Tianhai market, the most expensive rent in Lhasa, and gave birth to a lovely daughter to the army.

Da Jun and his daughter are in the Potala Palace Square.

But the army was not very happy: the business money was in the hands of the second sister-in-law. Every month, he had to give his ex-wifes two sons alimony, plus his daughters daily expenses. It seemed to outsiders that he was asking his wife for money.

He likes the blue sky and white clouds of the plateau, the thrill of the no mans land, and the friends from his hometown who always let him lead the way to play in some unpopular places, so the army got the idea of a sports car.

There are many kinds of famous guests: college students, young writers and artists who have lost their love and lost their jobs, men and women who come to Tibet to find love, divorced young women, girls who want to have a one night stand In the narrow space in the car, a few days and nights of travel, eating, drinking and pulling together, always make strangers quickly build trust and dependence. Many of the guests will greet each other from time to time after they go back and talk about Tibet.

This life enriches the army. But every time I drive a car, its two or three days short and half a month long. The second sister-in-law is busy making money every day. The two peoples life path goes further and further. In 2012, Dajun and her second sister-in-law divorced, and their daughter went to their wifes side. They still paid the maintenance fee on time every month. The Army wanted nothing and drove away from home.

After two marriages, the army felt that it was better for them to live freely and freely, because they had both children.

The group photo of the army and the milestone seems to predestine him to be a bachelor.

The pull of normal life in the city

After new years day in 2015, I drove back to Lhasa and called for the army to drink in the low house bar on Beijing road. There was a girl behind the army that day. She had a sweet smile and a sweet voice. She had a Taiwanese accent. It was very pleasant.

The army accompanied her to write a message in the yoghurt shop at the gate of Potala Palace, go to the alley of Baguo street, see the ah Jia worshipping in the Jokhang Temple, bask in the sun and drink sweet tea. Honey tells about his unhappiness. The army tells about what he has seen and heard in Tibet these years. Both of them know that something will happen. But the army didnt stay overnight in the honey hotel until honey left.

It seems that I like her very much. The more I like her, the more I dare not take the initiative. The time I have known her is too short. I really want to sleep. Will she let others look down on me and her?

After honey returned to Xiamen, the wechat of the two people kept going every day. The army also sent a message to go to the toilet on the way out of the car. The snow mountain they saw every day should be photographed for honey. Honey also cares about him: you pay attention to safety, and call me when you get to where you live.

In 2016, honey and the army were in pomyondro. I took pictures for them.

Honey will bring gifts to the army every time we come: Tyrannosaurus Rex glasses, gucci belt, LV bag, which make us blush one by one.

In July 2016, at the lakeside of Duoqingcuo lake, the army brought guests to bake corn.

We have to accommodate our guests when we eat and stay. We have all kinds of grievances along the way. Honey is very unhappy. After returning to Lhasa, he has been quarreling with the army for several days.

On the way to the Yarlung Zangbo River, the army took photos of the guests.

One day, the army came back to me and said that honeys family knew about the two of them. There was no objection, but if they wanted him to live in Xiamen, a girl ran to Lhasa so far away. The family was uneasy. Besides, it was inconvenient for them to have a child.

I said, this is a good thing. What do you think?

The army said, I have been in Tibet for so many years, but I havent returned to the city for a long time. What can I do when I return to the city? Do I drive a taxi?? I havent saved money in these years. All my enthusiasm has been given to Tibet. I run in the Gobi desert, no mans land and snow mountain holding the steering wheel, just like I beat chicken blood. Im proud to watch the guests excited and excited. These are all brought to them by me, and I will find myself very useful. If I go back to the city, I will become the most ordinary person, with low income, not the life I want.

I said: marriage must have sacrifice, you are willing to sacrifice, only you know

Im no longer the smart old driver

At the end of 2015, I went out with the army to camp in the Grand Canyon of Yarlung Zangbo River. The army said: Honey appendicitis, just after the operation, I want to run this job to Xiamen to see her.

After sending the army to the airport, I didnt feel like it.

The next day, the Army played a video for me. In the video, honey was lying on the bed in a sick suit. The armys head was squeezed on the pillow and the big donkeys mouth was grinning. Ive arrived in Xiamen, and your sister-in-law is fine. Ill be back in Xiamen for a few days.

After hanging the video, I sent him a message: how is it? Is my sister-in-law moved?

Im so touched, of course. Your sister-in-laws family is very kind to me.

After returning from Xiamen, the army moved to the idea of leaving Tibet. After all, he could not give too much honey economically. If he could not even do basic company, he would be irresponsible. Before long, he sold the car and gave all the useful things to his friends. Everyone envied that he finally became a real fruit. Honey was also urged by phone one day: when will you come back, husband?

But looking at his loss and gain, I know in my heart that he still cant let go. A few days before leaving Lhasa, the army went to Southeast Asia by bus and wrote at the foot of Zhuo mulari mountain:

Goodbye to Zhuo mula, I dont know when the next time will be!

A circle of friends who sell honey bags for the army.

But these photos were not distributed for a month or two, and then there was a long time of duangeng. One day when I was idle, I played a video for the Army: how about Shifu? Do you want to be happy in Xiamen?

He was still that big donkey face, laughing and saying, its very good. Your sister-in-law cooks for me every day.

What are you doing in Xiamen now?

The army paused for a while and said, I didnt do anything. I dont know what to do. Your sister-in-law has a cousin who runs a company. They have a lot of office buildings and many employees. I want to make lunch boxes and provide lunch for employees. Your sister-in-law doesnt want me to do it. She doesnt think its decent. I dont want to do anything else.

After that, we were all silent for a few seconds.

Then, the army asked me, Lin Zhis peach blossom is blooming beautifully this year. Look at the pictures of your circle of friends. Id like to have a look at it in my heart. Later, you can block me by sending out the circle of friends. Youre greedy for me!

Tibet under the camera of the great army.

Half a year later, the army spent almost all of its savings and money on selling cars, and there was more and more lack of confidence. My friend song Wei has a construction site over there. The lack of reliable personnel is in charge of finance. The army goes to help. Its 5000 yuan a month. Its not as good as making a lot of money from running in Lhasa for 5 days.

Honey understands the armys difficulties and avoids embarrassment on various occasions. But this kind of careful day made both of them tired - the army seemed to return to the time when they were together with their second sister-in-law.

The construction site is far away from Xiamen, where the army lives and goes home once a week. Instead of facing honeys family every day, it makes him more relaxed.

One day, I saw that the army had a circle of friends: its time for Lu Binghua beside the gas station in Yadong county to bloom again.

I flipped it over and realized that in the armys circle of friends, every month there was a corresponding Tibetan scenery - all the old photos he had taken before.

I regret for a moment: maybe I shouldnt have encouraged him to go to Xiamen to see honey - maybe that time he didnt go to Xiamen, he was still the most unrestrained old driver in Tibet. Maybe they will have a relationship for a while longer, and their feelings will fade. The real problems will make them more rational, at least not like now. The glory of Tibet will be faded from their heads, and they will become the most humble in the city A middle-aged man.

Back to Lhasa

All the guests in the car marveled that someone was so familiar with Tibet. I said proudly, this is my master, who took me into the profession.

In 2017, I took my guests out to climb over the mountain in front of me, namely Bhutan.

On the last night of December, the army sent a circle of friends, and then the video played to me: I want to go back to Lhasa, but I dont have a car, but I just want to go back.

The circle of friends of the army that day.

I know that honey acquiesced to the armys decision to live in Xiamen for love, without decent work and respectable social status. How long can marriage endure? In the end, there is no temperature in the concrete reinforcement, which can not warm peoples hearts.

The soldiers in the video said a few words, and their eyes were red. I also held back tears, pretending that it didnt matter: come back when youre not happy, its not much! Too long do not bask in the sun Lhasa, is not the bones are itchy? Would you drive my car at will and give you the Raptor?

In 2018, when the army returned to Lhasa, it drove the Raptor for the first time.

On January 18, 2018, after leaving for a whole year and 20 days, the army came back. On the way to the 40000 glacier, I listened to the orderly call of the army in the platform:

Pay attention to the back car. Pay attention to the front car.

Please take good care of your guests, and pay attention to whether there are any high counter guests in the car, and report to me if there are high counter guests.

Please pay attention to your water temperature, fuel volume and control the throttle.


Everything, as if to return to just know him.

In August 2018, Dajun was near the holy mountain of Gangrenboqi of lao219 National Highway (Yezi line).

After the peak season of that year, Dajun went to Xiamen and got a divorce certificate. To this day, he still earns money for later marriage for three children in Lhasa.

He no longer mentions honey. When he meets Xiamens guests, he will deliberately push it off.

Xu Zhibo, editor