Why Shenzhen is a food desert

 Why Shenzhen is a food desert

Guangdong people will say that their roast goose is better than Beijing roast duck.

Gufa Deep Well, Natural Litchi, Burned Goose, Especially Crisp, Uniform, Delicious / [email protected] Brother Material

White-cut chicken and soy-sauce chicken in Guangdong are better than those in other places. White-cut chicken must be accompanied by ginger soy sauce.

Take snacks for example, there is a rich culture of early tea; desserts play milk out of double skin milk, ginger milk, fried milk.

On the other hand, the old fire soup is exquisite.

In seasoning, there are some in other places, and others that can not be found in other places, such as fish sauce.

On pickles, not only dried plum vegetables, but also olive vegetables.

Early Tea, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province, February 23, 2019

But Shenzhen, Guangdong, seems to be an exception.

People who have stayed in Shenzhen for some time cant have never heard this sentence.

Where is Shenzhen fun? Lets go to Hong Kong.

Where is Shenzhen delicious? Lets go to Guangzhou.

Shenzhen is really short of delicious food, so that the flow of passengers to the periphery in vain?

Shenzhen, Gourmet Desert in the South

As a first-tier city, Shenzhen people, a large number of foreign businessmen, touristsconsumption capacity, of course, can attract all kinds of catering businesses to open stores.

But compared with similar cities, Shenzhen is not as good as Shanghai and Guangzhou, which is famous for eating in Guangzhou.

In the same large city with a population of more than 10 million, in 2017, the overall business income of catering industry in Guangzhou was nearly double that of Shenzhen.

The number of Enterprises above the quota and the income of meals in Guangzhou are more than those in Shenzhen.

Comparison of Guangzhou and Shenzhen Food & Beverage Industry/Drawing Based on Data from Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 2018

This is not to say that people in Shenzhen do not like delicious food, nor that the catering industry has developed to this extent to meet the needs of Shenzhen.

Shenzhen peoples hunger for delicious food can also be seen from the success of Libao Pavilion in Shenzhen.

This is not an old shop. Hong Kong started its business in 2013 and moved to Shenzhen. After that, it grew rapidly and received a bonus from the Shenzhen Tax Bureau.

The store is rich in dishes / [email protected] Pavilion

Today, Libao Pavilion has become the top commentator on the list of Guangdong cuisine in Shenzhen. Its Kerry store has about 17,000 comments, leaving behind nearly 10,000 comments [1] [3].

But the price of this shop is not low, and the per capita consumption has reached 158 yuan.

A large number of Shenzhen local people or foreign tourists are willing to pay higher prices to consume the store.

From the point of view of the stores with the highest single-store reviews, the average per capita consumption of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou is 75 yuan, while that of Guimanglong in Shanghai is 86 yuan.

As an immigrant city and a mega-city, Shenzhen does have many exotic dishes besides Cantonese cuisine, but it is not as good as Guangzhou and Shanghai.

On December 24, 2017, Shenzhen Lighting Music Food Festival opened, and the upstream of Food Street was crowded with tourists.

Take Sichuan cuisine as an example.

Shenzhen has a high proportion of immigrants, and Sichuan immigrants can rank in the top three.

However, Shenzhen has about 10,000 Mus Sichuan cuisines, Guangzhou has 13,000 Rongyu cuisines and Shanghai has 26,000 red peppers.

In the chafing dish list, Shanghai stores ranked first in the evaluation of Shangqian, the second elder brother officers are much higher than Shenzhen chafing dish Bahe Li Haiji, Guangzhous first chafing dish Fengyuan Coconut Coconut Chicken Theme Restaurant is also higher than Bahe Li.

In the three foreign dishes of daily food, Western food and Southeast Asian food, Shenzhen is no better than Guangzhou and Shanghai.

In the public comment, the comparison of the shops with the first categorization comment was made. The local dishes in Shenzhen and Guangzhou were Cantonese dishes, while those in Shanghai were Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Zhejiang cuisines/the public comment.

Popular comments are less, either the store opens late, or the number of diners is less, and there is a lack of punchers.

Whatever the reason, it reflects to a certain extent that the shop is not hot enough or the number of people who have eaten is less.

Why is Shenzhen crying for food in Guangdong, where food is as good as cows hair?

Shenzhen is still too young

Shenzhen is an immigrant city.

Before 1980, Shenzhen had not been developed. At that time, the buildings on the streets of Shenzhen were only about one floor high, standing in the range of 3 square kilometers.

The short history of Shenzhens development is rare in the world.

This decides that Shenzhen has no old name and no traditional snacks compared with other cities.

On February 7, 2019, Shenzhen Jingji 100 Building and Diwang Building had a beautiful night view. Shenzhen Speed has left behind the tradition of the city.

The influence of historical inheritance on dietary culture is considerable.

For example, Chaozhou cuisine, because Chaozhou and Shantou used to have more people and less land, and lack of food, likes to eat porridge in the diet, and becomes delicate, making the best use of food materials.

If there is no impact of drastic changes, this dietary culture can continue to develop.

Compared with Guangzhou, where there are less immigrants than Shenzhen, Cantonese cuisine can make a difference in Guangzhou after the 1980s.

At that time, Guangzhou absorbed the brine and other elements of Chaozhou cuisine (also known as Chaozhou cuisine, which originated from and prevailed in the food culture of Chaoshan area of Guangdong Province), and also absorbed the elements of Hong Kong-style Cantonese cuisine, which developed into the Cantonese cuisine of the majority of the population today.

Eat in Guangzhou has long been said.

Guangzhou people have always been fond of eating, eating out more, Engel coefficient and per capita food expenditure are high [17], which also feeds the catering industry in Guangzhou.

Comparisons of Engels coefficients of five cities in early years (unit:%). Engel coefficient is the proportion of food and beverage in consumption. Guangzhou has the highest proportion of Engel coefficient in all cities/compiled by the Department of Urban Social and Economic Survey of the National Bureau of Statistics.2006 Survey Report on Hot Social and Economic Issues in Chinese Cities [M]. Beijing: China Statistics Press.2007.

Local people like to eat, can cultivate the local catering market, tourists are attracted by food to travel, catering industry has been further developed.

Guangzhou and Chengdu are examples of this [9].

But Shenzhen itself as a small village, after becoming a special economic zone, rapid expansion has become a huge population pumping unit in the south.

In 2005, Shenzhen was an immigrant city with 8 million people and 70% of the population was not local.

The influx of immigrants is busy earning money, not as fond of food as Guangzhou people, but with their own tastes. Consumption can not provide a strong driving force for the cultivation of catering.

On July 18, 2018, Shenzhen Huaqiang North Metro Commercial Street opened with a huge flow of passengers. With the influx of population, various commercial streets emerged as the times require.

Chen Xiaoqing once had a microblog saying:

Shenzhen is an immigrant city with a huge number of individuals. Almost everyone has his own homeland in his heart, so his taste is somewhat unclear.

As the influx of people from Hunan, Hubei, Sichuan and so on, as well as the recent Northeast, they brought Sichuan, Hunan and Northeast cuisine. Among them, the earliest Sichuan cuisine is stronger.

On June 15, 2018, the night market of Pingzhou Metro Station in Shenzhen gathered local delicacies.

These cuisines from all over the world began to carve up the territory in Shenzhen.

In Shenzhen, Cantonese cuisine, which had little details, was excluded.

Local cuisine is not strong, and foreign cuisine is difficult to develop in Shenzhen.

We take Sichuan cuisine as an example. Sichuan cuisine is in the downstream of the scorn chain in Guangdong.

Cantonese cuisine, widely looking for food materials, light and delicate, heavy taste, at the top of the despising chain; while Sichuan cuisine seasoning heavy and hot, is the food of outsiders [8].

Even Cantonese cuisine itself, the higher the restaurant, the lighter and tastier the supply, while in the lower end of Cantonese cuisine restaurants may be fried, sweeter, saltier and spicier food.

The Yichuan Restaurant in Shenzhen does as the Romans do, providing a light-tasting bowl of Sichuan noodles/[email protected] Banny

Cantonese eat vegetables and soup. Shenzhen Sichuan cuisine goes home as the Romans do. A Sichuan cuisine restaurant provides sea cucumber soup / [email protected] Banny.

The Yichuan Restaurant in Shenzhen serves light-tasting food in the country as the Romans do. / [email protected] Banny

Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine have different orientations, so it is difficult to win the favor of people with different tastes at the same time.

Whats more, can we develop authentic Sichuan cuisine in different places?

Its not easy.

For short-term tourists, no one would pay so much to go to Guangdong to eat Sichuan cuisine.

For the permanent population, the mobility of Sichuan people in Guangdong is also greater than that of Guangdong people, which is a fatal blow to the establishment of the reputation of cuisine.

In the past thirty or forty years, Shenzhen has experienced a vigorous industrial iteration [7].

In this industrial iteration, Shenzhens resident population is highly educated and the middle class is increasing.

On May 30, 2019, in Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, employees of a large factory canteen are ordering meals. The agglomeration of large factories is also an attractive reason for Shenzhen

Some of the people who served in the restaurant had already left, and some new people came to Shenzhen. Then, it becomes difficult to establish public praise.

Secondly, in terms of consumption capacity, in 2004, the per capita monthly income of the local immigrants was 1014 yuan, while the local registered population was 2159 yuan [16].

More restaurants catering to outsiders are less consumptive.


Guangdong cuisine in Shenzhen has not developed very well, and Sichuan cuisine has not developed very well. What about other dishes?

Speaking of it, Shanghai can become the first city of Michelins guide in mainland China, not only because of the local cuisine, or a specific cuisine.

Shanghais prosperous catering industry is the result of a hundred flowers blooming.

On June 22, 2019, many Northerners did not understand why Shanghainese people went out to queue up to buy small steamed buns filled with soup. In their eyes, this is not the ordinary steamed bread that every family would make.

Guangdong Cuisine Museum, Shanghai, July 15, 2018. In Shanghai, you can eat all over the world with money.

Behind every citys delicacies, the citys own characteristics are indispensable.

According to a study, catering owners in cities are mainly determined by the agriculture, transportation and water supply and power supply industries which are closely related to catering services.

Although Shenzhen has developed transportation, it ranks low in agriculture, water supply and power supply.

On June 19, 2015, the traditional fishermen at the end of Bichangtai, Shenzhen. Shenzhen was originally a small fishing village

After becoming a special economic zone, Shenzhen has developed rapidly and enlarged its area, but it is still a world-class city with high population density and almost all high-rise buildings in its jurisdiction.

Such a high density has affected the catering industry in Shenzhen from two aspects.

First, the supply of food materials; second, the architectural form will affect the vitality of the citys catering.

July 14, 2018, Luohu, Shenzhen, Hubei Village, demolished and renovated, the night market is very lively.

Within the jurisdiction of Chinas cities, there is usually a certain amount of agricultural land, so that the supply of food materials has a certain self-sufficiency rate.

But Shenzhen is the exception.

Shenzhen lacks agricultural land and seaports are not used to develop fisheries.

In 2008, the proportion of self-supplied agricultural and fishery products in Shenzhen was very low.

Chengdu is a model of the developed suburban agriculture that can supply a large amount of vegetables in Chengdu. It is also a popular form of agriculture closely combined with catering: Farmhouse Music [10].

The self-sufficiency rates of food materials in four cities, Chengdu, Nanjing, Shanghai and Shenzhen, are in parentheses for statistical years. Source: LangG, MiaoB. Food Security for Chinas Cities [J]. International Planning Studies, 2013, 18 (1): 5-20.

This situation will not change. A small number of non-construction land in Shenzhen is mainly used for afforestation and golf course construction [10,13].

Among other cities in Guangdong, Guangzhou itself produces a lot of vegetables and aquatic products, and Foshan and Dongguan produce more.

Shenzhens use of precious land for other purposes is bound to increase the transportation cost of food materials.

Its not that there are any problems with such resource allocation, but from the point of view of food, Guangzhou seems to be more suitable for a food trip.

Yield of aquatic products, pork and vegetables in Shenguang and Foshan and Dongguan in 2017/Drawn according to Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 2018

The impact of land is not only in the supply of food, but also in restaurants.

Shanghai has land for catering construction. In 2018, there were more than 100,000 restaurants in Shanghai. The number and density of restaurants ranked first in China.

However, there are fewer restaurants in Shenzhen, and the chain restaurants are becoming more compact.

Shenzhens business area, number of meals divided by the proportion of the number of employees is a trough in big cities [12].

Basic Situation of Chain Catering Enterprises in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen in 2017/Drawing Based on Data of China Retail and Catering Chain Enterprises Statistical Yearbook 2018

Divided by the low proportion of employees, meals are more served by more practitioners and less served. To some extent, they are more delicate and, of course, more expensive in the case of more land in Shenzhen.

The catering chain is generally a successful and mature catering enterprise.

This may prove that Shenzhen is not totally without delicious food, but it lacks more delicious food that can be affordable to ordinary people.

January 28, 2015, a famous hotel in Shenzhen, Shenzhen, high prices, good food and entertainment, as long as you can afford to spend

Fortunately, friends in Shenzhen need not wait too long.

Perhaps because two first-tier cities no longer welcome outsiders, Shenzhen has become the ideal place for many people to emigrate.

Nowadays, Shenzhen gradually presents the characteristics of high income and high dietary consumption. Its Engel coefficient (referring to the proportion of dietary expenditure in total expenditure) surpasses the national level in the same period, and also surpasses that of Beishengguang [14].

On October 3, 2018, there was a lively scene in the gourmet city of Miaojie, Shenzhen. The food demand of Shenzhen people is no smaller than that of any first-tier city.

Shenzhens middle-class is rising, and the taste of the middle-class is very personalized [15].

Even if Shenzhen people have never really been fed in the past, some people will rush to satisfy the stomach of Shenzhen people in the future.


[1] See the website of public comment of three stores, Guangzhou Diandu (Jufu Lou Dian) http://www.dianping.com/shop/13808705; Guangzhou Chunzai Chef Cafe (Guangming Square Store) http://www.dianping.com/shop/13706878; Shenzhen Libao Pavilion (Jiali Store) http://www.dianping.com/shop/15104339; Yinlou (Baoan Nanlu Store) http://www.dianpi. Ng.com/shop/92497372; Guimanlong, Shanghai (Royal Street of Southern Song Dynasty (Dream of Dragons)) http://www.dianping.com/shop/9977754.

[2] Miaos Sichuan Cuisine (Nanshan Dian) http://www.dianping.com/shop/2511526; Rongyu (Jiangnan Avenue Store) http://www.dianping.com/shop/22912956

[3] See the interview with the founder of Libao Pavilion: Libao Pavilion Chen Zhenjie: A Gourmet Tale of Two Cities http://view.inews.qq.com/a/HSZ2017080205583805

[4] Clark C. THEPOLITIC SOFPLACEMAKINGINSHENZHEN, CHINA [J]. Berkeley Planning Journal, 2012, 12 (1).

[5] Li Jiancheng, Chen Fei. [J] Geographic Interpretation of Chaozhou Cuisine is the Best in the World. Tropical Geography, 2013, 33 (02): 200-205.

[6] Yang Chunhua, Zheng Qiang and Li Shilin. A comparative study on the development level of catering industry in major tourist cities in China [J]. China Commerce, 2016 (17): 140-142.

[7] Wang Jinying, Wang Lin. The impact of population agglomeration on Industrial Development in large cities in China: based on the empirical study of the industrial production function of cities at or above the deputy provincial level since 2000 [J]. Journal of Hebei University (Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition), 2016, 41 (06): 59-67.

[8] Klein, JakobA. Redefining Cantonesecuisin post-Mao Guangzhou [J]. Bulletin of the Schoolof Oriental & African Studies, 2007, 70 (03): 511-537.

[9] Huang Ying. Study on the impact of catering industry on Chengdus economic development [D]. Southwest University of Finance and Economics, 2011.

[11] More than 100,000 restaurants in the city rank first in the number and density of cities in China at http://www.shanghai.gov.cn/nw2/nw2314/nw2315/nw4411/u21aw1391364.html.

[12] See China Retail and Catering Chain Enterprise Statistics Yearbook 2018.

[13] Yi Quan. The golf industry in Shenzhen ranks first in China [J]. Chinas economy and trade, 2008 (17): 66-66.

[14] Zhangping, Liu Qichao. The influence of residentsincome, price level and consumption structure on Engels coefficient: an empirical study from Shenzhen [J]. Statistics and decision-making, 2017 (19): 91-94.

[15] Elfick J. Class Formation and Consumption Among Middle-Class Professionals in Shenzhen [J]. Journal of Current China Affairs, 2011, 40 (1): 187-211.

[16] Wang YP, Wang Y, WuJ, etal. Urbanization and Information Development in China: UrbanVillage in Shenzhen [J]. 007. Source of this article: Author of Netease Wave Studio: Yanyan Responsible Editor: Xia Xushu_NBJS8998

[16] Wang YP, Wang Y, WuJ, etal. Urbanization and Information Development in China: UrbanVillage in Shenzhen [J]. International Journal of Urbanand Regional Research, 2009, 33 (4): 957-973.