A tribute to the 70th anniversary of the motherland
Lawrence Xu Bian on the Change and Development of Chinas Fashion Industry
In the summer of 2010, the 63rd Cannes Film Festival opened on schedule. Fan Bingbing shocked the whole Cannes with a bright yellow dragon robe.
Fan Bingbing dominated all the headlines of media coverage for a time. Even Red Carpet Fashion Awards, an international fashion website, chose the model as the top ten dresses for the star red carpet. Dragon gown became the key word of the year.
This dress is called Oriental Xiangyun. Two golden dragons and one multicolored Xiangyun. Various patterns run through the whole dress, which perfectly displays the Chinese elements inherited for thousands of years.
Lawrence Xu was born in Zaozhuang, Shandong Province, a small city.
Lawrence Xus father is such a very standard Shandong man, who places great expectations on his children. He is very strict with our brothers and sisters. He likes to let us study hard. Every parent may hope for Jackie Chan, but he may have a deeper expectation than that. When I was a child, children were very fond of playing. It was a natural instinct, and I liked it very much. Father knows that I love to play and will lock me up in my study.
This study also became the enlightenment house of Lawrence Xu when he was a child.
Later, Lawrence Xu developed a habit of reading books. He had a special pillow book, which he still carried with him wherever he went, 300 poems of Tang and Song Dynasties. Sometimes I read a poem before I go to bed. This poem may not be remembered at the moment, but I can feel that feeling, so emotion is very important to me. I always use emotion as the basis of my design, so even if my works cant speak, they can show all my feelings.
In the 1980s, when China pursued the policy of reform and opening up, the closed door was opened. Western culture and fashion quickly entered China, transmitting the latest trend information to the younger generation.
The streets of Beijing in the 1980s were mostly beautiful girls dressed in fashion.
The street is full of young men in suits and leather shoes, and girls in fashionable and modern clothes. When they got married, they also changed into suits and wedding dresses. When they lifted cheongsams in those days, they all thought it was a very earthy item.
Lawrence Xu disagreed at the time when everyone was pursuing Western fashion. He felt that China also had its own fashion. We have been learning Western design, in fact, the history of Western design has been for hundreds of years. Sometimes we think that this change is horrible. It makes the global unification, aesthetic unification and unification lose their individuality. Let people all over the world lose the most precious thing of their own nation - our national personality. In the 1980s and 1990s, when Qipao was raised, people thought it was earth. We have lost our culture, which is worth pondering. Perhaps this is the loss of culture. I do Chinese style, in fact, I want to retain some beautiful things.
In the 1980s, like most Chinese, Lawrence Xu grew up in the pursuit of Western fashion day by day. Until 1996, he was admitted to the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, and everything changed.
Lawrence Xu, the 40th student of the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, graduated in 2000 after four years of studying fashion design in the school system. 2000 is the beginning of the new century, at which time Chinese fashion has entered a new stage:
The first generation of independent fashion designers in China, represented by Wang Xinyuan, Guo Pei, Wu Haiyan and Mark, rose. They use the new centurys Chinese fashion language to communicate with the world.
Since 2000, there has been an upsurge of studying abroad in China. Everyone wants to go abroad to see the wonderful world outside, including Lawrence Xu. After graduation, Lawrence Xu went to France to study abroad, which laid the foundation for his later design style.
Ambition does not mean success, although there is a love for the motherlands fashion, but after graduation, Lawrence Xu also experienced a long period of gloom.
At that time, Chinas design industry was not developed. Instead of believing in a newly graduated student, people preferred to spend money to find a well-known designer. Nobody likes you for nothing, because you are not good enough, you are not shining enough, you are not well-known enough. Then why would I invest money in you and give you credit? I had just returned home, and no one trusted me. I had a friend who thought I was VERSACE in China at that time. When you eat together and talk about your career, my friend says, Lawrence, I think you are VERSACE in China. I see your talent. But do you know what the result is? Its the feeling of laughing generously and leaning backwards and forwards, not the real recognition of you. Why did not you approve, because you did not achieve results.
So when I opened my studio after I returned home, I lost everything.
Finally, he waited for the chance.
In 2003, director Zhang Jiaruis work Seventeen Years of Sima needed a designer to design a dress for the heroine to attend the Montreal Film Festival in Canada. By coincidence, Lawrence Xu became the designer of the dress on the recommendation of a friend. Thus, Lawrence Xu feels a little hopeful.
At that time, everyone was very poor, including the director was not so rich. Little actors are only 16 years old, and they have no money. I designed a very simple dress at that time. It was very simple and lively. At that time, director Zhang Jiarui said after seeing it, you can make a movie.
Because of the marriage of Seventeen Years of Xima, Director Zhang Jiarui reused Lawrence Xu and let him really participate in a film production Bride at the Waist. The film tells the story of Fengmei, a Yi bride in Huayao. In order to find inspiration for the design, he followed the group to Shiping County, Yunnan Province, where the Huayao Yi people live together, learn to sing, watch dragon and lion dance, and finally designed the gorgeous costumes in the film.
And the heroine of this film is Zhang Jingchu, who was in the red pole at that time. Because of the film, Lawrence Xu met Zhang Jingchu and ushered in an important turning point in his life.
In 2005, the film Peacock was included in the 55th Berlin Film Festival. Zhang Jingchu, as the heroine, was going to walk on the red carpet. Lawrence Xu was appointed to design the dress.
Eventually, on the red carpet of the festival, Zhang Jingchu shocked the audience with his luxurious red Chinese dress, which not only made him a newcomer, but also made many people know the designer behind it, Lawrence Xu.
Lawrence Xu, who came into the publics view with his peacock dress, has also been recognized by many celebrities and even the public. Fan Bingbing is one of them.
Many people know that Fan Bingbings Dragon Robe in 2010, Oriental Xiangyun, came from Lawrence Xu, but it was a cooperation before that that that Fan Bingbing recognized Lawrence Xu.
Her first trip abroad was to Berlin Film Festival, not Cannes. Cannes and Berlin are two or three years apart. When Fan Bingbing was mentioned, Lawrence Xus tone was full of admiration. ? Shes a very brave girl, with a good personality and a lot of beauty. I like her character of righteousness very much. When I first met her, she called me and asked me, Lawrence, where is it? I said I was at the door. Ill pick you up and come quickly. She is a very hard-working woman. She is also a Shandong native.
It was the winter of 2007. Fan Bingbing needed Lawrence Xu to design a dress for her to attend the 57th Berlin Film Festival. But because Fan Bingbings filming time is very tight, there is very little time to discuss design manuscripts with Lawrence Xu. Every time she shoots a film, it may be two or three oclock. In order for us to proofread the manuscript together, she will come back from the scenery. Its more than four oclock, and then touch the manuscript. Its the Berlin Film Festivals snowing plum hunt.
Fan Bingbing was called Oriental Vivien Leigh by Western media because of this style. She was wearing snow to look for plum when she appeared. Foreign media felt that such an oriental beauty came out of the city. It was very poetic (skirt) full of Oriental Calligraphy and plum, magically drifting to.
Fan Bingbing appeared at the 57th Berlin Film Festival Film Apple in Snow Seeking Plum
In this way, they established a good friendship. Maybe Shandong people have a bright atmosphere in their bones, and the cooperation after that is very smooth. Even when Fan Bingbing made the dragon robe Oriental Xiangyun, he did not try it on at last. When Cannes arrived, Mr. Bukowen, the stylist of Ice Ice, sent me a warm message and told me,Dragon The gown is ready and will be on the stage in a few minutes. When he sent the news, it was about 9 or 10 p.m., I began to wait on the computer, because I didnt know what the clothes really looked like, suitable or not.
So Ivanka, Americas 1000th Kim, and her daughter became one of Lawrence Xus propagandists.
In 2017, Trumps granddaughter, Arabella, dressed in a pink Chinese cheongsam, warmed the world by singing songs in Chinese, reciting the Three-Character Sutra and ancient poetry videos. And the designer of this cheongsam is Lawrence Xu.
Ivankas daughter, Arabella
Both Ivanka and Ivankas daughters are my guests. Ivanka was wearing the clothes I designed when she returned to the United States from Japan. Then I designed clothes for her daughter, Arabella. She carries three-character scriptures and sings childrens songs, which makes people feel very happy. Actually, how good is Chinese language? Chinese is the most beautiful language in the world.
Dont forget your first heart, go ahead bravely
As a high-profile designer, Lawrence Xu has made dresses for many celebrities and film and television works.
I dont think its entirely defined by craftsmanship. Its not exactly like the French craftsmanship. It has to take more than 500 hours to make and so on. More importantly, in my opinion, it should be that guests and clothes complement each other, just like another skin, temperament coincides. If you look at all my designs carefully, you cant pierce each other, you cant misplace them, otherwise its not it. Its a spiritual concept, just like being a feather with you to make you fuller.
Laurence Xu 2015 Spring and Summer Advanced Customization Series Dunhuang Paris
We are what we call night and day, and what we call group struggle, day and night. Thats the moment that Ill always be grateful for, the moment Ill be grateful for all my life, 2013. We started preparations from the year before the 2012 show.
At that time, I already had a lot of works. It must be a threshold to go to Paris. He depends on your contribution to the worlds clothing. I prepared all kinds of things and materials, including the Dragon robe. I applied for it. I had to carry out three examinations. I had to check the methods of work and the skills. Then we got a ticket. This ticket is heavy, because we dont know what it is like to show in Paris, and we dont know whether our handicraft and clothes can meet really high standards. It can be said that we are crossing the river by touching stones. Every morning, nine to eleven oclock in the morning, everyday is so uninterrupted. With such a spiritual team, what battle cant be won?
Team cohesion is inspiring. Especially for artists, it tends to support their belief that collective strength and passion for goals are what sustain them.
Lawrence Xu Shouxius Hydrangea Press Conference
This action not only makes the ancient Chinese art blossom on the world stage, but also makes the whole Paris see the fashion belonging to China itself.
I feel very good. Its a huge change from not being recognized before to being recognized and supported now. At first, everyone laughed at the Chinese style and thought it was indigenous. Now, the Chinese wind has changed into a foreign country. These great changes are the improvement of aesthetics, culture and all aspects. They are all good.
When the reporter interviewed here, he felt Lawrence Xus face. During the interview, the reporter was touched by him many times. He also believed that in the future design road, a sentence would be engraved in his heart forever: I love the motherland.
Executive Planning & Supervisor/Zhang Lei Yang Xiaowan
Writing/Yang Yating Interview/Wen Xin
Design/Han Jiali Late Stage/Yin Shuming Huangjia Competition
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