Guo Pei: It took me decades to understand what Gaoding is.

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 Guo Pei: It took me decades to understand what Gaoding is.


She was called Chanel of China by the New York Times.

In January 2019, GuoPeis spring and summer 2009 Gaoding series ended perfectly in Paris. This is the seventh Gaoding Show in Guo Peis life. There are three more. She has become a permanent member of the French High Fashion Association.

And she says shes not really a high-end customization yet.

To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the motherland, Guo Peipian, a renovation and development of Chinas fashion industry, Netease Fashion

In the summer of 2015, METGALA, known as the Academy Award for Fashion, was held as scheduled at the Metropolitan Museum of New York. Rihanna, a famous singer, appeared on the red carpet in a golden embroidered dragon gown, which also made Guo Pei known to people all over the world.

Rihanna on METGALA Red Carpet

This dress is one of Guo Peis One Thousand and Two Nights series, weighing 25 kilograms.

My husband said that a star from the United States sent him EMAIL to wear my clothes, Rihanna to wear them. Who is Rihanna in my first sentence? Then my husband said that I dont know much about it. Its like a singer. I said I couldnt wear it. Singers couldnt wear it. I want to sing how to wear my dress. You know how hot and heavy it is. I said no.

Eventually, because Guo Pei was going to the Metropolis of the United States to participate in the exhibition, she took the dress designated by Rihanna to the United States under the persuasion of her husband.

Everyone was shocked when Rihanna appeared in Meet Gala wearing it. Only one local American media reported hundreds of millions of views on Rihanna Dresses. Also let the whole world know Guo Peis name.

Do clothes need to be designed?

In China at the beginning of reform and opening up, there was no such word as fashion design.

Guo Pei was born in the late 1960s. In that era, there were already a series of excellent designers abroad, such as Karl Lagerfeld, the old Buddha. Compared with that, China, which had just entered the early stage of reform and opening up, did not have the word clothing design.

When Guo Pei was over two years old, because her mothers vision was not good, she had learned to help her mother needle. It was also at that time that Guo Pei planted seeds in his heart to be a fashion designer.

In 1982, Guo Pei, a 16-year-old, had the idea of going to the Academy of Fine Arts because he liked painting. But in that era, painting was regarded as a very non-professional thing. Especially Guo Peis father strongly opposed painting. If my father saw me painting, I remember the worst time, he took my painting and tore it off directly, saying that you should learn it well. Xi, when you grow up, you should do a serious job, not such a very serious thing. Drawing was a very unproductive thing at that time.

But even though he was strongly opposed by his father, Guo Pei remained firm that this was the choice he wanted. In that year, no students were enrolled in the Academy of Fine Arts. It happened that the clothing design major of Beijing Second Light Industry School was enrolled. At that time, I told my mother that I wanted to take this major, and then my mother said: Do clothes need to be designed? Thats what she really said. I was stunned. I said I liked it. Mother said you could ask someone else. I really went to ask our neighbor, and she answered me: fashion design? Thats the tailor.

In the end, Guo Pei chose the major of fashion design, which was very unpopular at that time. This was the first time that Guo Pei made a decision against his parents.

Beijing Second Light Industry School attended by Guo Pei

First Graduates of Chinese Fashion Design Major

In the four years of school, Guo Pei began to understand, learn painting and tailoring knowledge in a real and systematic way. Although Guo Pei had never been exposed to painting education before, he still graduated first in his class.

In our view, this is talent, but Guo Pei prefers to call it love in the bone. Genius comes from a kind of love, that is, in your bone, in your life, you fell in love with it at a very young age. Then because of your love, you will pay more attention to this aspect.

A childs talent should be constantly absorbed in life. In fact, you said that there are many traditional cultural things in my works today. Many people will ask Guo Pei how to use traditional cultural things to design your works? In fact, I always say that this is not deliberate, I do not have to use a certain element of China, a dynasty, a period of what totem to express myself, to express my work, to spread to the world. If you see this layer in my work, its a representation, but you see whats behind it, its like my language and my blood. Its something I really cant take out of my life, thats love.

In this way, Guo Pei became the first graduate of fashion design major in China, which also means that Chinese fashion design major opened the first door. Establishing clothing design specialty was of greater and more practical significance to China at that time.

Guo Pei graduated in 1986 at the time of reform and opening up. Chinese society was in a thriving state and began to pursue economic development. However, in terms of dressing, it was still in a state of conformity: people dressed because of the need for survival, not the need for beauty. The styles of men and women are basically the same. The styles are only Zhongshan suit, Lenin suit and military suit. The colours are mostly black, grey and blue.

Chinese streets in the early 1980s

Guo Pei was one of the first graduates of fashion major in China. At that time, all of them would go to various garment factories. At that time, garment factories were different from those now. They all produced ready-made clothes on a large-scale assembly line in their workshops. The top three students in the graduation examination have the privilege to choose which clothing factory they want to work in first.

Guo Pei, who graduated first in the class, chose to go to the hardest childrens clothing factory. The value at that time was where I went. My father is a soldier, my mother is a teacher, and the influence of my family is imperceptible. I feel that I am an excellent student and I am proud to volunteer to come to a childrens clothing factory that everyone does not want to come to.

After a months internship in the flow shop of the childrens clothing factory, Guo Pei finally waited for an opportunity to show her talent and design clothes according to her own ideas. We have a fair in the agricultural exhibition hall, and then one of my designs sold more than 4700 pieces.

At that time, there was no height that a designer could reach, which also made Guo Pei feel the charm of fashion for the first time. Since then, her talent has been quickly recognized by the market.

In that era when the film market was scarce, Guo Peis clothes had already appeared on the big screen. One day my brother asked me to go to see the movie Erzi Opening Store. When my brother and I walked in and saw Chen Peis second son wearing a T-shirt, my brother asked me, Is that the dress you designed? You know what? This is the first time my clothes have appeared on the big screen. My brother and I are very happy.

Although many of Guo Peis designs at that time became bestsellers and appeared on the big screen, they were all clothes produced by large-scale assembly lines, completely different from the romantic and beautiful clothes Guo Pei yearned for in his heart. It even became her obsession:

Later, I slowly began to feel that my clothes were not beautiful and the design was not beautiful. Then I walked around my own yard when I entered the yard. I always felt that it was not beautiful enough.

At that time, Chinese clothes were mainly sold, What is good clothes? Your clothes sell a lot and your designs are very popular with consumers. But youre a good designer if you can buy them real gold and silver? At that moment, I didnt think so. I always think I should design a very beautiful dress. I especially wanted to design the dress I dreamed of when I was young, and the big dress that Princess Cissie wore on me. But whenever I tell my boss that I want to make a big skirt, he says its no use.

Such internal agitation, I do not know how many times Guo Pei has hit in the heart, and finally once, she made a major decision: I feel that I can not achieve my ideal here, so I resigned. At that time, I thought that the freedom of designers was to design whatever they wanted, which was called freedom.

From Spring Festival Gala to Olympic Games

In 1997, Guo Pei was named Chinas top ten designers. In the same year, she founded her own company, now Rose Square. Because I like roses very much, you know how stubborn I am, it can only be called a name, Rose Square.

The first custom dress of Rose Square was given to the singer Bao Rong. At that time Guo Pei made a very beautiful dress for her to shoot MV. This dress also became an important opportunity for Guo Pei to become an imperial designer for the Spring Festival Gala.

Bao Rong introduced Guo Pei to singer Zhang Ye. In 1998, Zhang was invited to the Spring Festival Gala that year, singing Entering a New Era, and specifically found Guo Pei to make a dress suitable for her to sing this song. Guo Pei carefully designed and made a yellow-green collision dress for Zhang. This is Guo Peis work, which was first presented on the stage of CCTV Spring Festival Gala.

Zhang also said in an interview: At that time, if anyone said that my clothes looked good, I was particularly enthusiastic to tell her that it was made by Guo Pei. I like to wear her beautiful cotton-padded gown embroidered. When I see foreigners, I will consciously raise the price of the dress. Because in foreign countries, as long as there is a little embroidery, the price is amazingly high.

Guo Pei has also become the imperial designer of the Spring Festival Gala. Before the Spring Festival, it is also the time when Rose Square is under the greatest pressure. Every year, people who come on the stage of the Spring Festival Gala will not allow themselves to make mistakes. They are more strict about clothing and can not deviate from it.

Zhou Tao, Dong Qing, Yang Lan... Almost all the hosts of the Spring Festival Gala wore the dresses designed by Guo Pei, especially Dong Qing. Every year for more than ten years, Dong Qings dresses were designed and produced by Rose Square, without interruption.

Dong Qingchun Evening Dress

During the dialogue, Guo Pei told some impressive stories. One year I designed a dress for Dong Qing at the Spring Festival Gala because the host usually chose red, but I always thought Dong Qing could try Green occasionally, so I suggested that she wear green, but Dong Qing insisted on wearing red. Later, I think its also true that the red dress is the most suitable one for her, so I made a red dress by consensus. When the dress was finished, Dong Qing would think about the green effect every time she stood in front of the mirror. Suddenly one night at 12 oclock, I called and told me that maybe green is OK. Is it possible for me to try green?

It was 12 oclock and I wanted to refuse it immediately.

Talking about the mood at that time, Guo Pei said, because the Rose Square team at that time had no more time to work overtime 24 hours a day because of the Spring Festival Evening Dresses. But I cant refuse. I said yes. Come here then. Then I finished communicating with Dong Qing. I spent a whole night making clothes. The next day, when she put on the green dress, she said, Guo Pei, you are right. Its better to be red. But you know, you have to let her heart completely accept the red, because her heart that self-confidence can not hesitate at all, must be 100% to believe that they are the most beautiful state, she has todays aura.

This is just an episode about the Spring Festival Gala. All dresses are well-polished. Guo Pei said that before every Spring Festival Evening, Rose Workshops production workshop is like a battlefield. It has become normal for dozens of hours of day-to-night modification and rush of work. In Guo Peis mind, the best dress design for Spring Festival Gala is to make the host stand confidently in front of more than one billion TV viewers. Therefore, regardless of the director, the host and the general design of art, Guo Peis opinions on either side should be taken into account and respected.

If the Spring Festival Gala is an opportunity for Guo Peis life, then the Olympic Games is another important step in her career.

The Olympics gave me a thorough understanding of what self is.

On July 13, 2001, Beijing successfully applied for the Olympic Games. On that night, when Samaranch announced that the host city of the 2008 Olympic Games was Beijing, the whole nation celebrated. In that era, it was of special significance for China to host an Olympic Games: it could prove Chinas strength to the whole world and also represent the worlds affirmation of China.

Guo Pei first received the task of designing the Olympic dress because of a national competition. At that time, Guo Pei, a well-known designer, had to participate with hundreds of professional designers and thousands of enthusiasts. As a mature designer, Guo Pei is full of confidence. When I received this task, I suddenly felt a sense of indescribability, responsibility and finally waiting. I must do it. Im perfect for it.

It seems that I have accumulated a lot of energy in my heart, and finally wait for the opportunity to spray out, so it took Guo Pei almost a few minutes to complete the first draft of the dress. At a time when everyone was satisfied, the leadership put forward more stringent requirements for Guo Pei.

Guo Pei was most impressed by the design of the waistband in the Olympic dress. I remember once the leader said that the waistband of the dress could be narrower. I said yes, because it was said by the leader, the subconscious would say no problem. Next time, it would be better to narrow the waistband.

Then the next time you look at the dress, the leader asks me if Guo Pei doesnt want to remove the waist seal. I said no. I went three centimeters. Because when I designed it, I thought that the waistband would make girls feel upright and spiritual. Why should the West make a waistband? That kind of self-confidence and overflowing are released from the waistband. Then when the leader said you didnt really want to leave, I suddenly had a sober feeling at that moment.

I want the whole world to see that our country is not losing, our Chinese etiquette. But in fact, I was still my own moment, do you understand? Have self-preservation. I am a designer. If the whole world saw your design, it would be a glorious moment. But when the leader said you didnt want to narrow it very much, I felt like I was awake. This design not only represents myself, but also China, representing all the people of China, their understanding of the Olympic spirit and attitude towards the Olympic Games. Its not that kind of special strength. Let the whole world see how good you are. Youre no worse than anybody else. Thats not what it means.

From then on, Guo Pei understood what self is and what self-forgetting is. You know after the Olympics, I feel very mature. In fact, I have todays expression, and I have a later understanding that design itself is a service, because of the bid for the Olympics. And I really understand that I want to put myself in the perspective of service and make a dress in order to achieve other peoples goals and realize their ideals.

This is the Olympic Games, the change brought to Guo Pei. At the award ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, Guo Peis three series of award dresses appeared on TV screens all over the world, which also made the whole world feel the Chinese national culture.

2008 Olympic Dresses Designed by Guo Pei

What is the real Gaoding?

In the early days of Rose Squares founding, China had no concept of the word Gaoding. In Guo Peis mind, the original Gaoding was: high-grade customization, high-grade fabrics, in a very high-level environment, of course, there must be a very high price.

Slowly, her understanding of Gaoding becomes more internal and in-depth. After time, you still feel that it is high-level, that is the real high-level.

When Guo Pei thought she was doing high-level customization, the chairman of the French Gaoding Trade Union told her that she was not a real high-level customization.

Almost eight years ago, I remember that the chairman of the French Gaoding Association, Gorbach, came to my studio and said that he was going to do a Chinese exhibition in Paris. He came to select some designers and works to show in that place, so he chose my works. I took him to see my works at that time. When he finished walking out of the house, he still turned around step by step. He liked it very much. Then he told me that when you go to Paris this time, you cant be a high-definition designer, you can only be an artist. You cant use the word Haute Couture now.

Because the real Gaoding designer is not that you say high-level to high-level, it has very strict certification. In France, Advanced Customization is a name protected by law. Only with the approval of the French Association of Advanced Fashion, can it be qualified to be called Gaoding.

In 1945, the French Chamber of High Fashion established strict standards to meet the requirements before applying for an inspection by the Chamber. To truly become a high-end customization requires a series of stringent requirements: exquisite craftsmanship, having a studio in Paris, at least 15 full-time personnel, attending two fashion releases held by the French High Fashion Association every year, and so on.

So since then, I have removed all the words of Gaoding and the brand. Then I suddenly came to a new understanding of advanced customized oil in France.

This is also an important opportunity for Guo Pei to go abroad. Before that, Guo Pei did not think about going abroad to develop. Because I think my customers and my market in China, my language is not good, and there are Western standards in the West that have nothing to do with me, his standards have nothing to do with me, how many standards he can establish, but I do not want to use that standard to measure me.

Guo Peis Queen Orchid in One Thousand and Two Nights

In 2015, Guo Pei first submitted materials to the French High Fashion Association, and became the only member of the French High Fashion Association to pass the audit for the first time in 158 years.

The information they require is too detailed. You have to hand in ten yearsdesigns, manuscripts, photographs of ten years designs, fabrics for each piece of clothes, and the manufacturer of this fabrics, so that the manufacturer can produce a certificate that nothing can be forged. And Ive just had ten years! Guo Pei has developed a good habit of sorting out materials since her first show Circle in 2006. Success has never been a shortcut. In her case, it perfectly proves that opportunities are left to those who are prepared.

Meet Series

Known as Chanel of China

I think Im done.

This is the true reflection of Guo Peis heart after the material passed, Because when I really want to take out the show, I immediately feel very upset. I dont think anything will work, not every detail will work. Then I thought it was over. I just lifted the stone and hit myself in the foot. I wasnt ready at all, because I was scared and nervous less than a month before I released the list, and then I was going crazy.

Not enough time, never so short a time to make a show, all kinds of problems make Guo Pei feel nervous. At that time, it was the kind of emotions full of pressure. At that time, nobody paid attention to me, and the mood must be bad. But I think whats particularly good is that Im starting to get used to it.

In January 2016, Guo Peis first Gaoding series Courtyard appeared in Gaoding Week, Paris. She freely used Chinese embroidery handicraft in her own design, and also made Chinas advanced customization go to the world.

After the show, Guo Pei submitted an application to the French Association of High Fashion to postpone the release show until January next year, because unlike ready-made clothes, Gao Dingxius dresses may take tens of thousands of working hours, especially for Guo Pei, who pays attention to complicated craftsmanship and exquisite details, holding two shows a year is a fast pace that she has never experienced before.

Legendary Supermodel Carmen Deduces the One Thousand and Two Nights Series

But in May, Guo Pei saw her name on the list of Gaoding Weekly in Paris in July. This time, she still participated in Gaoding Weekly as an invited member. Moreover, after the release of this list, 50 media have reprinted the news for the first time, Guo Pei can be said that there is no way out.

So there is Guo Peis second series of Meet Series in Gauding Week in Paris. In preparation time, Guo Pei only spent 40 days. When I finished this show, I felt relaxed. I could finish a show in 40 days, a Gao Dingxiu. The response was not as good as the first one, but it was not bad. So I thought, well, thats good.

The third Legend series can be said to be Guo Peis most fully prepared show, which she regarded as a gift for herself for 30 years and a gift for Rose House for 20 years.

That scene was perfect for me, because I was so ready that I used all the threads for every detail, including the ones I went to the antique market to find that would never happen again, on a dress. Some of the fabrics of those clothes might never be produced.

Legend Series

In Game 4 and Game 5, Guo Peis mentality changed from tension and pressure at the beginning to liking and even addiction. When I finished Game 5, I didnt want to think about it. It was just my addiction. It was my liking. So everyone liked what I did in the sixth game. I was very relaxed. I just dont feel stressed.

I remember when the president of the Association told me that Guo Pei, you have to do ten games before you can apply for a lifetime membership. Now I have finished seven games, then suddenly understand why he asked you to insist on ten games, because once given you a lifetime member, it means that even if you do not do it for many years, do it again as a member of Gaoding Guild, no need to review and pass, and have the right to vote, that is, I can vote for others, so you know that the honor of lifetime member can not be given a. People who dont know if they can stick to it.

Now Guo Peihuang has finished seven games. As the earliest generation of designers, from the beginning did not know what is fashion design to learn design, into this industry. Guo Pei has been doing things that no one else has done.

Guo Pei has always wanted to be a museum in China, showing her complete collection of works. Because I am Chinese, you want to know what fashion will look like in China. China is a country that has developed to this day. In fact, it runs through society. If you want to understand a country from the perspective of fashion, you need to understand the attitude and culture of the country. I used to be a designer. It seems that I was just making a beautiful dress. But I didnt expect to see a country in the dress today, an era, and even the reform and change of our country in the past 70 years. From a person, from a tailor, from a designer.

Editorial remarks

Although Guo Pei is now a very famous designer and has been sought after by many celebrities, Guo Peis guests are by no means limited to those at the top of these pyramids. Compared with celebrities, Guo Pei is more moved by the ordinary people who come to her to make clothes.

Guo Pei said that once there was a laid-off female worker who came to her with the money saved by her monthly social insurance, hoping to make a wedding dress for her daughter.

Guo Pei then asked her why she did not use the money to buy a car or other necessities of life.

The mother answered, That doesnt mean I love her. If I buy it, its just money, but if I find you to make a wedding dress, its not just money. Do you know how touched it is? When ones own design is no longer just a dress, but the desire of others, it is the most touching and happy thing.

At this point, Guo Pei has some tears in his eyes.

Production Team

Producer/Tian Hua

Master Planning & Supervisor/Han Li

Executive Planning & Supervisor/Zhang Lei Yang Xiaowan

Writing/Yang Yating Interview/Wen Xin

Photography/Zhuang Yangfan Studio Photography/Yanwei

Design/Han Jiali Late Stage/Yin Shuming Site/Guo Pei Rose Square

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Source: Netease Fashion. Internal Source Responsibility Editor: Yang Yating_NBJ11328